Giuseppe Garibaldi Monument
Plaza Italia is a small square on Palermo district, next to the Jardín Zoológico, Jardín Botánico, Subte, Sociedad Rural Argentina, bus stops and Parques de Palermo. It is on Santa Fe Avenue, on a central island of a traffic circle that also receives the Las Heras Avenue and Sarmiento Avenue. Its surrounding is very crowded, but the square seems to be only a walking way to thousands of hurried people.
The monument of the Plaza Italia was a donation of the Italian residents to the city of Buenos Aires, inaugurated on June 19, 1904. It was made by the Italian sculptor Eugenio Maccagnani as a replica of the one located in Brescia, Italy. It shows Giuseppe Garibaldi over his horse, with his sword pointing towards the sky, as the legendary “hero” figure. On each side below the horse, there is a statue (3,5 meters high), representing the Victory and Freedom.
In the center, below the horse, there is a stepped relief in bronze poured in Rome, representing the “San Antonio de Salto Battle“: In February 8, 1846, Garibaldi was fighting for Montevideo, Uruguay, for the Italian flag, and won an army with much more soldiers. The composition shows the hero on the center and two clusters of soldiers on each side. The scenery’s border is done by a village where the legionaries were hidden and by the tall palm trees of the region. The drama shown highlights the battle.
San Antonio de Salto Battle relief
Garibaldi (1807-1882) is considered to be the biggest Italian hero. A militar and political leader who helped the independency process of Uruguay, battled on the “Guerra dos Farrapos” (Brazil), fought for the Italian unification against the Austrian army as well as for the Second War for the Independecy of Italy, also defended France on the Franco-prussian war. His dedication to the battles made him world wide famous, and several monuments, besides this one at Plaza Italia, can be seen in places like New York/USA, Taganrog/Russia, Budapeste /Hungary, Porto Alegre/Brazil and in several Italian cities.
Where?
Intersection of Santa Fe, Las Heras and Sarmiento Avenues
sepphora | 5:32 pm | Palermo | “0 Comments”
Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
Inside the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar there is a small museum that used to be the cloisters of the Recoleto friars. The admission costs $1.00 (one peso) and it is possible to appreciate works of art of the XIV to XIX centuries, like paintings, sculptures, registry books, pieces of furniture and saint effigies.
The Baroque style saint effigies are very expressive and curious; there are doll-like saints with human hair wigs, glass eyes, decorated clothes and earrings. They are ”imágenes de vestir” (dressed effigies), a type of sculpture carved on wood with only head, neck and hands detailed and the rest of the body not finished as it would be covered by clothes. It was a technique very used in the South of Spain during the XVI and XVII centuries and later brought to the Americas. With time, some sculptors created articulation for the arms and legs to ease on their dressing and to make possible to change the image’s position according to the rites of the celebrations, as a puppet theatre. This could increase the effigies affective qualities.
Imagen de vestir, Brazil, XIX century
Imagen de vestir of St. John of God, Bolivia, XIX century. With glass eyes.
Imagem de vestir, Peru, XVIII century
Sacred family richly adorned with sea shells
It is very recomendable to do a guided visit to the Cloisters if you are in Buenos Aires on the date, as it happens only once a month. For further information, access the official website with the timetable and days of visitation. Unfortunately, a non-guided visit turns impossible to notice the richness and history of each piece, although they arouse our curiosity due to its amount of details.
Where?
Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar | Junín 1904 | Tel: +54 (11) 4806-2209 / 4803-6793
sepphora | 11:22 am | Recoleta | “0 Comments”
The Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is on the Recoleta’s district, in front of the Plaza Intendente Alvear (also known as Plaza Francia). During the weekend, it normally gets crowded, and the tourists go to the artisan’s fair and visit the Recoleta’s Cemetery.
It is the oldest church of Buenos Aires which has an architecture of Baroque style. Its history starts in 1708, when Franciscan Recoleto friars came from Spain and received the donation of a high land from a couple of landowners (Capitan Fernando de Valdez e Inclán and his wife Gregoria). Their intention was to build a church and a convent. In 1716 the construction was authorized by king Felipe V, and Juan de Narbona built a modest chapel and four cloisters for the friars. In 1725, the construction of the church was finished.
The main altar was done by Domingo Mendízabal, Ignacio de Arregui and Miguel de Careaga. In 1731, a Saint Antonio de Padua’s bell was put on the belfry. In October 12, 1732 the church was inaugurated, when its 30 meters tower was finished. In 1779, an atrium with a relics altar and a Baptism place was included in the facade. In 1936, Pope Pius XI designated it as a basilica and in May 21, 1942 it was declared a National Historic Monument.
Main Altar
All the six secondary altars were carved by the Portuguese Pedro Carmona. Among them, there are:
Altar of the Christ of the Patience and Humility:
It shows a Christ image with sore spots and wounds over the head, sat down over a rock waiting for his Crucifixion.
Altarpiece of the Christ of the Patience and Humility
Altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel:
Image carved and painted on wood from the XVIII century. The Virgin is over the Mount Carmel “that shines more than the sun”, holding the child Jesus on her arms. She uses a short veil, crown and a golden Carmelites habit with brown details.
Altarpiece of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Altar of Saint Anne and the Virgin Mary:
Image of Portuguese Rococo style carved and painted on wood from the end of the XIX century or beginning of the XX century. Saint Anne stands up with her hand over the Virgin’s shoulder. She holds a scroll with the words “to Love God above all Things”. She wears a blue tunic, white veil and a brown mantle. On the white tunic of the girl we can see symbolic motifs as the fount, the scale, etc.
Altarpiece of Saint Anne and the Virgin Mary
Christ Crucified
Inside this Basilica there is also a Museum where the friars cloisters were before, and it will be the subject of a next post.
Where?
Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar | Junín 1904 | Tel: +54 (11) 4806-2209 / 4803-6793
sepphora | 9:04 am | National Historic Monument, Recoleta | “0 Comments”
The Obelisco (Obelisk) is the icon of the city of Buenos Aires and a National Historic Monument that celebrates four occasions:
1. Four centuries of the city’s foundation by Pedro Mendoza, in 1536.
2. The exact place where the Argentine flag was flown for the first time, at the tower of the San Nicolás de Bari church, in August 23, 1812.
3. The second foundation of the city by Juan de Garay, in 1580.
4. The declaration of Buenos Aires as Federal Capital of the Nation.
These occasions are written on each one of its four faces, as you can see on the photograph below the inscriptions on the faces East and North, respectively:
“Buenos Aires
A LA REPÚBLICA
(TO THE REPUBLIC)
En el IV Centenario de la fundación
(In the IV Centennary of the foundation)
de la ciudad por
(of the city by)
DON PEDRO DE MENDOZA.
II de Febrero de MDXXXVI.”
(February, 2, 1536)
“EN ESTE SITIO
(IN THIS SITE)
en la torre de San Nicolás
(in the San Nicolás tower)
fue izada por primera vez
(it was flown for the first time)
en la ciudad
(in the city)
LA BANDERA NACIONAL
(THE NATIONAL FLAG)
el XXIII de agosto de
(in August, 23)
MDCCCXII.”
(1812)
It was inspired by the Obelisk of the city of Washington, USA, when its designer, the Argentinean architect Alberto Prebisch was visiting this country. This reference was on perfect understanding with the neoclassic objective that would search to recover the basic geometric shapes and remind the ancient civilizations.
In 1936, at the intersection of the 9 de Julio and Corrientes avenues begun its construction, and it was finalized in 31 days.The official inauguration was on May 23, 1936.
The Obelisco is 67,5m height and each side on its base is 7 m. Its only entrance is on the West side, and inside it there is a stair of 206 steps with 7 rest areas every 8 meters until the top, where there are 4 windows and one lightning conductor.
The Obelisco is a venue for various cultural activities sponsored by the city government, manifestations or commemorations in general. Thanks to its suggestive shape and the white color, as a sheet of paper waiting to be used, sometimes the Obelisco inspires and is “dressed” on determined dates, such it was on December 1st, 2005, when it was covered with a giant “condom” of 67 meters long, in commemoration of the international AIDS awareness day.
Where?
At the intersection of the 9 de Julio and Corrientes avenues
sepphora | 12:31 pm | National Historic Monument, San Nicolás | “0 Comments”
Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires
The city-tours of Buenos Aires use to go through several monuments and touristic attractions too fast, lots of information are told and many times it is impossible to see what is being explained in the opposite side of the bus. Generally, in one of the two bus stops of 10 minutes, the Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral) is elected for the tourists’ visitation.
In this first visit, I didn’t pay too much attention to the Cathedral, but to the Plaza de Mayo (May Square), where it is. Perhaps to run away from the crowd, because several other tourist buses had stopped in front of the Cathedral at the same time. But when we came to Buenos Aires for the second time, we visited the places by ourselves and we went back to Plaza de Mayo to see its Cathedral with more attention.
But why is this place elected as one of the main places to be shown to the tourists that go for the city-tours?
Maybe because in 1942 it was declared as a Historical Monument. Or for its turbulent history, that from 1580 to 1752 was full of collapses, demolitions, deconstructions, repairs and project changes. At this period of time, five cathedrals were built at this place one after another, but the definitive one that lasts until today would only be the sixth to be constructed.
Externally, the Cathedral has the appearance of an ancient Greek temple, very different of any other church I have ever seen. The facade was concluded in 1823 by the French engineers Próspero Catelin and Pedro Benoit; it has 12 columns that represent the twelve apostles and a relief done in 1863 by Joseph Dubourdieu that represents the reunion of Jacob and his son Joseph in Egypt.
The huge interior impresses: it has 5 naves, and the central one has almost 100 meters of length and was decorated with Renaissance frescoes by Italian Francesco Paolo Parisi. Different styles can be recognized in its interior because the Cathedral was constructed by several architects and men who, depending on the time and opportunity, were adding or changing something, as Baroque elements and others of Romanesque style. The floor is covered with Venetian-style mosaics designed by the Italian Carlo Morra and the Cathedral’s surface is about 3000m².
On the nave’s right side there is a mausoleum with the remains of General San Martin since 1880. This marble mausoleum was done by French sculptor Albert Carrier-Belleuse: a black sarcophagus is guarded by three life-size female figures that represent Argentina, Chile and Peru, three of the regions freed by the General. When we visited the Cathedral, we had the chance to see the Changing of the Guard: some uniformed guards payed honor to San Martin’s memory.
Changing of the Guard
San Martin’s tomb
The main altar of Churrigueresque style (Spanish Baroque) is golden with winding and spiraled shapes and flowers ornaments and was done by Isidro de Lorea.
Main altar
On the left side there is the Chapel of San Martín de Tours and the monument of the Archbishop León Federico Aneiros, a Carrara marble and stone mausoleum, done by the sculptor Victor de Pol. The fourteen Via Crucis paintings were done by Italian Francesco Domenighini. On this side there is also one altar with a wooden sculpture of the Christ of Buenos Aires, and another dedicated to the Virgen de los Dolores.
Nuestra Señora del Rosario de San Nicolás
Surely this Cathedral worth a visit, but I don’t recommend to do it with city-tours. This Cathedral is a place of respect and pray, and between hundreds of tourists and only 10 minutes it is difficult to see all its details and beauties.
Where?
Av. Rivadavia y San Martin | Tel: +54 (11) 4331-2845 / 4345-3369
sepphora | 1:36 pm | Montserrat, National Historic Monument, San Nicolás | “0 Comments”
Torre de los Ingleses at dawn
The “Torre de los Ingleses” (Englishmen’s Tower) or “Torre Monumental” (Monumental Tower) was a gift given to the Buenos Aires city by the British immigrants in 1916, due to the celebration of the 100th anniversary of the May’s Revolution. It is located at the center of the “Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina” (formerly known as Plaza Britannia).
Its architectural style is the Palladian, a very strong tendency in England by the end of the XVI century and time of the second foundation of Buenos Aires. All the supplies came from England, except the water and sand; “Portland” stones and cement were used as well as red bricks of the “Leicester” type.
It has 75,5 meters high, in 8 floors, its base has 280m² and each side is oriented to the cardinal points, being the entrance on the West side. The base also has 4 access stairs and its doors are decorated with freizes where triglyph and ornamented metopes are alternated with different emblems of the British Empire.
Above this details there are several shields of Argentina and Great Britain. The image below shows the lion and unicorn, symbols of England and Scotland, and the French saying “Dieu et mon droit”.
Freize’s detail
Due to maintenance reasons the public access is closed until 2009. Until 2006 it was possible to visit the terrace, which is 50m high at the same level of the tower’s clocks, making it possible to see a great panoramic view of the city. These clocks were made of British Opaline and have 4.4m of diameter. Above each quadrant there are 5 bells of bronze, and a full system that reproduces the sounds of the Westminster Abbey. The dome has an octagonal shape and is covered by copper sheets, on the top there is a “wind catcher” representing a three mast frigate.
Tower’s terrace
During the Falklands War between Argentina and Great Britain, the tower became a target of the insatisfaction of the Argentineans. At this time they changed its name to “Torre Monumental”, but today it is mostly known by its former name “Torre de los Ingleses”. We can see some spray painting like “Las Malvinas son Argentinas” (The Falklands belongs to Argentina) and spots of red paint thrown to its walls.
The Falklands War is still an open wound in the Argentina’s history. Each citizen has its own opinion and documentary movies are shown once in a while. The plead to incorporate its territory to the Argentinean sovereignty is still submitted to UN every year.
Graffitis over the monument
Where?
Plaza Fuerza Aerea Argentina | Avenida del Libertador y San Martin
sepphora | 2:19 pm | Retiro | “0 Comments”
The first time I heard the name of the Spanish architect and engineer Santiago Calatrava was in 1999, at the university of Industrial Design. A professor said that we should know his work, because they were “pure design”…
Calatrava is worldly known through his works that generally have organic shapes and very dynamic structures with the appearance that can remind bones, ribcages, insect eyes… Inspired by the nature shapes, his works turn the landscapes where they are inserted a bit more organic.
Here at Buenos Aires we can see the only work of Calatrava in all the Latin America. It is the “Puente de la Mujer” (Woman’s Bridge), one of the five bridges that connects East Madero and West Madero. Its opening was in August 24th, 2001, few time later the reopening of Puerto Madero, being one of the most visited attractions in this district.
The Puente de la Mujer has 5 meters width, 160 meters wide and weights 800 tons. It has a pointed white shape which has a 39° of inclination with the horizon and which height is 34 meters. Attached to this “spine” are 19 stainless steel cables with 5 cm of diameter that sustains the moving part of the bridge, which rotates 90° and becomes parallel to the dock, clearing the path for the bigger ships.
These pictures were taken during the sun rise.
Where?
Puerto Madero | Dock 3
sepphora | 7:10 pm | Puerto Madero | “0 Comments”
Inside the Botanical Garden of Buenos Aires, besides the vegetation and many stray cats, there are several sculptures and I think the most interesting is the one called “Saturnalia”. It’s a sculpture made in bronze extremely expressive that shows a group of persons who seem to be alive. Photographing it from different angles new details seem to emerge at the same time others are hidden.
According to an explanation sign next to the sculpture:
“It represents the annual Saturnal Party realized in honor of the god Saturn.
It acquires the qualities of a non-stoppable orgy of the ancient Romans. This Classic Style sculpture apports a realism, but for its thematic value, it shows the virility of the soldier’s souls with brutal bodies.
It also shows the vitality and tenderness of the bodies that could find all the expression on its central figures.
The female figures are slender, happy and voluptuous, making one group that shows a live and relaxed movement.”
Still on this sign, we can read:
“During the Militar Dictatorship, this sculpture and others were forbidden, taken away to stables and covered with dung. When Democracy returned, it was rescued and put inside this Botanical Garden, in 1984.”
The subject of the sculpture is the Saturnalia Party, celebrated by the ancient Romans on December 17th. Due to its great popularity, with the years, it became a whole week celebration. It was marked by tomfoolery and reversal of social roles, in which slaves and masters ostensibly switched places. Everything was allowed, but the work and the seriousness of the regular days: gambling was allowed in public, slaves were released from work and informal clothes were used. Drinking, noise and games and dice, singing naked, clapping of frenzied hands… It was also an opportunity to visit friends and to give gifts. The Saturnalia celebration continued till the middle of the fourth century, when it was absorbed in the celebration of Christmas.
This sculpture generated controversy since it was created by the Italian sculptor Ernesto Biondi (1855-1917). In 1905, Biondi sued the Metropolitan Museum of Art for failure to exhibit it, while The Museum argued that Saturnalia was removed from public exhibition in consequence of hostile criticism. It was recognized that the sculpture was a great work of art, with qualities of a very realistic kind, but it was considered “indecent”, “revolting”, “horrible”, “immoral” among other degrading qualities.
The “Saturnalia” of Buenos Aires is only a reproduction of the original which is at the Museum of Modern Art, in Rome. In my opinion, this sculpture is very rich and make us think about all the aspects of the human nature, how would we be without the boundaries of society/government and with the years, how things are understood differently…
Where?
Jardín Botánico | Av. Santa Fé 3951 | Tel: +54 (11) 4831-4527
sepphora | 3:58 pm | Palermo | “0 Comments”
Club de Pescadores
Before traveling to a new place, I like to take a look on it through Google Earth. There I saw for the first time this “pretty little house”. Something on it got my attention, perhaps the architecture, or the fact that it is over waters, or its toyish appearance, I don´t know… Being at Buenos Aires, this was one of the places I had to visit.
We could only visit it on the second time we came to the city, when we went for a walk to see it. We found out that the “pretty little house”, or Club de Pescadores (Fishermen’s Club) is a National Historic Monument.
Club de Pescadores
Its history tell us (briefly) that in the year of 1903 there were an old and abandoned pier over the Rio de la Plata (Silver River) waters, built by a French company who used it to tie up their coal boats. From there the coal was discharged into railway wagons and would go till Retiro’s Station. This abandoned pier were a meeting place of some fishermen and they decided to repair it and to build a “little house” to store their belongings.
However, in August 1905 the pier was completely destroyed by a violent torment over the Rio de la Plata. This didn’t discourage the fishermen, and they continued their activities and fishing competitions at the local. In 1928, with the project of Jose N. Quartino, begun the construction of a new pier and a new house which would be the club’s official headquarters. The construction was inaugurated in 1937, with the presence of the president of Argentina, Augustín P. Justo. Today, the building looks just like as it was in its great opening day. You can read (in Spanish) its more detailed history at the official website of the club.
Inside the house there is a photographic museum of its history, and a restaurant at the first stage called “Muelle del Plata” (Silver’s Dock), which we had the pleasure of having lunch that day. The food was very good and the service was great! Because we had gone for a walk, we got there before noon and the restaurant was still closed, but it didn’t matter and we were exclusively served! 
We really liked the waiter, who started a conversation about Brazil and was very friendly. It was a very pleasant experience to have lunch in the “pretty little house”, to be well attended and have the Silver River’s view in a beautiful sunny day.
Muelle del Plata restaurant’s view
Where?
Av. Rafael Obligado s/Nº y Av. Sarmiento Costanera Norte | Tel: +54 (11) 4773-1354 / 0649 / 3636
sepphora | 10:02 am | Costanera, National Historic Monument, Palermo | “1 Comment”
This photograph was taken in January of this year. This day, we decided to photograph landscapes with the dawn illumination, forcing us to get up early and go by bike in the dark until the Puerto Madero district, about 10km away from where we live.
Getting there, the city still was waking, few cars were on the streets, a peace only seen on weekends at this time. This day, we took some beautiful photographs which will be shown in future posts.
Particularly on this picture, the sun starts showing itself behind the new buildings of Puerto Madero, illuminating slowly their silhouettes and one of the postcards of Buenos Aires, the “Puente de la Mujer” (Bridge of the Woman), work of the architect Calatrava, which I also will detail more soon…
The history of Puerto Madero is quite interesting. Back to mid XIX century two engineers, Eduardo Madero and Luis Huergo, tried to make concrete the dream of the habitants of this port city to finally have a port to communicate with the world. Each architect presented several projects to the government, and the chosen one was Madero’s. The construction begun at April 1st, 1887 and finished at March 31st, 1898, 5 years later Madero’s death. Everybody celebrated the sea traffic opening.
Between 1900 and 1905 warehouses of red brick were constructed by Wayss & Freytag using a project of the architect Charles Hawkshaw. These warehouses stored tons of grains that were exported, and they have three or four stages with cellar.
However, in the beginning of XXth century, the boats had increased their size and Puerto Madero was insufficient, leading it to a premature disposal only 10 years later your opening. For the half past century, the abandon situation made the red brick lose their color and the rats took place of the warehouses.
In November 1989, the president Carlos Menen signed a decree to recycle all the 170 hectares of the port. After this huge change, Puerto Madero was reopened on the year 2000, and today this is one of the most valued area of Buenos Aires, with buildings of great multinationals and where rich tourists live. Some particular universities are there with many restaurants and craze bars side by side, fighting for the tourists’ attention, next to cinemas and offices. Puerto Madero’s night-life is away from monotony.
sepphora | 11:50 am | Puerto Madero | “0 Comments”
wordpress | Buenos Aires Landscapes by MuvHaus © 2008
All images and texts presented here are copyrighted. Any kind of reproduction without explicit authorization is forbidden.